A walk around Portishead

The marina with upmarket flats Portishead

Portishead is a small town in Somerset. It is situated near the mouth of the Severn Estuary just a few miles from Bristol. You might know the name from the band Portishead. One of the band members grew up in Portishead and named the group after his hometown.

When I was growing up, Portishead was the site of two large coal fired power stations and a large phosphorus works. We only came to visit the large open air heated swimming pool.

This week for Natalie’s weekend coffee share I am inviting you to come on a Portishead walk with me. We will explore modern Portishead and perhaps enjoy a coffee in one of the upmarket cafes that fringe the marina.

Portishead walk

On Saturday our walking group met up at the lakeside carpark for a circular five mile stroll along the coastal path which connects old and new Portishead. The weather was sunny and warm, just right for a trip to the seaside.

Esplanade Road runs along the sea front. On one side we had the Bristol channel with a grass and shingle shoreline. On the other side we had the lake grounds with well-tended flower gardens, a boating lake, snack bar, toilets, tennis court and bowling green. In one direction, a cliff path took us to Black Nore lighthouse. We could have continued to Clevedon but instead we turned round and stopped for a drink at the Windmill pub. This was converted from one of the last windmills to be built in Somerset. The restaurant has huge floor to ceiling windows which offer panoramic views of the Severn Estuary. During the second world war it was the headquarters of the home guard.

Black Nore Lighthouse. You can just see the Welsh hills in the distance.
Naval training college now luxury flats

When this naval college was built cadets slept in hammocks.

You can’t swim in the Severn estuary because of the fast currents and mud but the cliff tops are ideal for kite flying.

swan boats on the marine lake Portishead
Marine lake

The townsfolk of Portishead dug out a marine lake close to the shore and our family enjoyed going in the paddle boats and feeding the ducks when they were children.

Our circular walk took us past the lake and the open air pool and up to Battery Point. Guns and searchlights were put in place during the second world war and manned by the home guard. The headland has been given protection in perpetuity as a memorial to those soldiers who lost their lives. Ships have to pass close to the coastline on their way to Avonmouth and Portbury docks. Battery point lighthouse bell, a much loved symbol of the town’s maritime history is displayed on the central reservation of Wyndham way.

Replica Lighthouse Battery point

We went through woodland and dropped down to the new RNLI lifeboat station at the other side of the headland.

Flower planters outside the lifeboat station

A sculpture of five female figures commemorate the masts of Portishead radio which sent messages to shipping.

Portishead Marina

Portishead had a long history as a fishing port. It expanded rapidly in the 19th and 20th century but now industry has been displaced and in place of the old deep water docksyou will find a 250 berth marina (awarded 5 gold anchors) with cabin cruisers and yachts.

Some of our walkers could remember the power station chimneys being demolished. Today the whole area has been completely transformed into a large marina surrounded by upmarket flats making it a very desirable place to live. Part of the development was built in the style of a Cornish fishing village with narrow streets and multicoloured houses. It is not surprising that the population of Portishead has doubled in the last thirty years.

The sculpture trail

The trail saw more than 20 artists from across the world collaborate to create 30 different art works representing the town’s history. The project was funded by developers Crest Nicholson and Persimmon as part of a section 106 planning agreement for a multi million pound development. 

Sculpture of three burnt matchsticks with their heads bent together. Portishead sculpture trail

This sculpture which is part of the Portishead sculpture trail is called “when shall we three meet again” by the sculptor Robert Stuart Clamp. The quotation is of course from the witches scene in Macbeth. “

When shall we three meet again

In thunder lightning or in rain

when the hurlyburly’s done

when the battle’s lost and won

William Shakespeare

This humble sculpture of three burnt matchsticks reflects Portishead’s former role in importing white phosphorus for making matchsticks.

I can’t remember when I last used a match, but they used to be a staple of every one’s weekly shop.

Open air Pool

Portishead made very good use of a byproduct of the phosphorus plant, hot water. Sixty years ago, when I was ten the townsfolk built an open air swimming pool. Hot water was tankered to the pool four times a day and I used to love swimming there when I was young. 

Luckily when the phosphorus plant closed down the council installed a boiler which gives constant warm water. But  by the turn of the century the pool was showing its age and the local paper, the Bristol Evening post backed a campaign to restore the site. Incredibly, this was spotted by an American T.V. extreme makeover show who gave the pool a two hundred thousand pound face lift. The townsfolk were very grateful and the pool is now run by a team of volunteers

 Suitable for all ages, the whole family can enjoy a dip in the heated pool with stunning views towards the Bristol Channel. The pool is 33m long so there’s plenty of space for everyone! There is also a café lido serving refreshing drinks and snacks when you’re tired of splashing around! 

Location: Esplanade Rd, Portishead, Bristol BS20 7HD

Find out more about Portishead Open Air Pool here!


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4 responses to “A walk around Portishead”

  1. What a lovely place. It’s really far away from us but looks to be worth a trip out for those who are nearer! Love those little RNLI wellies.